{"id":11403,"date":"2008-04-15T19:38:42","date_gmt":"2008-04-15T23:38:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/?p=11403"},"modified":"2015-05-21T19:47:08","modified_gmt":"2015-05-21T23:47:08","slug":"ten-times-and-counting-birding-in-southeastern-arizona","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/ten-times-and-counting-birding-in-southeastern-arizona\/","title":{"rendered":"Ten Times and Counting\u2014Birding in Southeastern Arizona"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"TxtPage1\">\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><div class=\"wp-block-group sidebar-alignright sidebar-space order-bottom\"><div class=\"article-list list-style alignright\"><h2 class=\"article-list-header\">More From Living Bird<\/h2><ul><li class=\"article-item\"><div class=\"article-item-container\"><div class=\"article-item-media  content-living-bird-toc\"><figure class=\"article-item-media-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/04\/lb_homepage_loon.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/04\/lb_homepage_loon-720x329.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/04\/lb_homepage_loon-768x351.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/04\/lb_homepage_loon-480x219.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/04\/lb_homepage_loon.jpg 918w\" sizes=\"\" alt=\"common loon by marie read\" loading=\"lazy\" \/><\/figure><\/div><div class=\"article-item-body\"><span class=\"article-item-header\">Living Bird Spring 2008\u2014Table of Contents<\/span><\/div><\/div><\/li><li class=\"article-item\"><div class=\"article-item-container\"><div class=\"article-item-media  content-living-bird-toc\"><figure class=\"article-item-media-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/living-bird-latest.png\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/living-bird-latest.png 720w, https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/living-bird-latest-240x180.png 240w, https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/living-bird-latest-480x360.png 480w\" sizes=\"\" alt=\"Living Bird-latest issue\" loading=\"lazy\" \/><\/figure><\/div><div class=\"article-item-body\"><span class=\"article-item-header\">Living Bird Magazine\u2014Latest Issue<\/span><\/div><\/div><\/li><li class=\"article-item\"><div class=\"article-item-container\"><div class=\"article-item-media  content-article\"><figure class=\"article-item-media-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/living-bird-acrhive.png\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/living-bird-acrhive.png 720w, https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/living-bird-acrhive-240x180.png 240w, https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/living-bird-acrhive-480x360.png 480w\" sizes=\"\" alt=\"Living Bird archives\" loading=\"lazy\" \/><\/figure><\/div><div class=\"article-item-body\"><span class=\"article-item-header\">Living Bird Magazine Archives<\/span><\/div><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\"><span class=\"s1\"><div class=\"wp-block-group sidebar-alignright sidebar-space order-bottom\"><!--HubSpot Call-to-Action Code -->\r\n<span class=\"hs-cta-wrapper\" id=\"hs-cta-wrapper-096b8ce3-0e2d-46c5-bbf7-12de3323c8da\">\r\n    <span class=\"hs-cta-node hs-cta-096b8ce3-0e2d-46c5-bbf7-12de3323c8da\" id=\"hs-cta-096b8ce3-0e2d-46c5-bbf7-12de3323c8da\">\r\n        <!--[if lte IE 8]><div id=\"hs-cta-ie-element\"><\/div><![endif]-->\r\n        <a href=\"http:\/\/cta-redirect.hubspot.com\/cta\/redirect\/95627\/096b8ce3-0e2d-46c5-bbf7-12de3323c8da\" ><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"hs-cta-img\" id=\"hs-cta-img-096b8ce3-0e2d-46c5-bbf7-12de3323c8da\" style=\"border-width:0px;\" src=\"https:\/\/no-cache.hubspot.com\/cta\/default\/95627\/096b8ce3-0e2d-46c5-bbf7-12de3323c8da.png\"  alt=\"subscribe to Living Bird magazine\" loading=\"lazy\" \/><\/a>\r\n    <\/span>\r\n    <script charset=\"utf-8\" src=\"https:\/\/js.hscta.net\/cta\/current.js\"><\/script>\r\n    <script type=\"text\/javascript\">\r\n        hbspt.cta.load(95627, '096b8ce3-0e2d-46c5-bbf7-12de3323c8da', {});\r\n    <\/script>\r\n<\/span>\r\n<!-- end HubSpot Call-to-Action Code -->\r\n\r\n<\/div><\/span><\/p>\n<p>Let\u2019s say you take a birding trip to Upper Mongalute. While there you meet a friendly local who provides lots of good advice, and in fact helps you find the rare and endemic Lesser Upper Mongalutian Ditch-Babbler\u2014though you\u2019re unable to search for the Greater owing to a strike by disgruntled sampan captains.<\/p>\n<p>Now your friend is planning a trip to the United States and writes to ask for advice. He or she is not a person of wealth, depending for income on the volatile worldwide market price of cattail fluff, Upper Mongalute\u2019s only export crop. This is a one-time-only visit, with no money for jetting around our vast country. What single place, your foreign friend asks, should I visit?<\/p>\n<p>Why, eastern Texas, of course. Fly Air Mongalute to Houston, rent a car, drive down the Gulf Coast to the Rio Grande Valley, make a swing back through the Hill Country, and there you have it: our best birding. California may have marginally more species than Texas on its state list, but who would wish its freeways on any visitor? Especially an Upper Mongalutian, to whom two yaks in a pack constitutes a traffic jam.<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-block-group legacy-sidebar sidebar-alignright has-lightgray-background-color has-background\">\n<h4>Learn More<\/h4>\n<p>Bird guide, hotspots, and local knowledge for your southeast Arizona trip<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.sabo.org\/birding.htm\">Southeastern Arizona Bird Observatory<\/a>  <\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Southeast Arizona is one of the Nature Conservancy&#8217;s Top 10 Bird Hotspots<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nature.org\/initiatives\/programs\/birds\/animals\/searizona.html\">Top 10 Bird Hotspots: Southeast Arizona<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<p>And yet . . . and yet many of us, asked to pick our favorite birding area in the United States, would choose not eastern Texas but southeastern Arizona. The Texas coast and the Rio Grande Valley are great for birds, but\u2014how can I put this delicately?\u2014they\u2019re ugly. Oh, sure, you can find pockets of prettiness here and there: a deserted Padre Island beach, say, or the semitropical forest of Santa Ana National Wildlife Refuge. But the birding sites are set in relentlessly flat terrain, separated by undistinguished stretches of highway and suburbanization.<\/p>\n<p>Southeastern Arizona, on the other hand, would be beautiful even if Elegant Trogons weren\u2019t lurking in every other canyon and a dozen hummingbird species weren\u2019t buzzing feeders. It\u2019s the kind of beauty that pays off for birders, with low deserts and 9,000-foot mountains and all the life zones in between. It\u2019s wonderful to experience the sights and sounds and smells of the Sonoran Desert at dawn, but it\u2019s even more wonderful to be able to escape to a pine-fir forest for lunch.<\/p>\n<p>When I was six, crazy about birds and to a lesser extent\u2014say, only slightly deranged\u2014about lizards and snakes, my family drove 1,000 miles west to visit relatives in Tucson. The transition from eastern deciduous forest to mesquite and then to barren rock, seen through the windshield each day, made a big impression on me. So did the saguaro desert (could the surface of Mars be any more exotic?) and the horned lizard I temporarily corralled on the grounds of San Xavier del Bac Mission (who wants to look at an old church when critters like this are around?).<\/p>\n<p>My eyes opened widest, though, for a male Western Tanager, a sight that confirmed once and for all that birds were just the coolest things on earth. The trip served as a kind of entry point for infection, for the chronic feverish conviction that travel, and especially travel to see birds and experience new environments, is one of life\u2019s greatest pleasures and rewards.<\/p>\n<p>And, of course, it hooked me on southeastern Arizona. It was 16 years before I went back, and this time I knew a little more\u2014i.e., about half of what, at the age of 22, I thought I knew. I was visiting a friend who had temporarily moved to Phoenix, but I made time for Papago Park, South Mountain Park, Tonto National Forest, the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, and a quick trip up the Catalina Highway to the top of Mount Lemmon. I had to buy the Robbins <em>Birds of North America<\/em> to supplement the eastern Peterson field guide I\u2019d had since my toddler days, because this was my first real birding trip out West. I barely skimmed the surface of the avifauna, but at the time it seemed that a treasure chest had opened, releasing birds such as Phainopepla, Lawrence\u2019s Goldfinch, Abert\u2019s Towhee, Yellow-eyed Junco, White-throated Swift\u2014even Common Raven was a new and thrilling addition to my list.<\/p>\n<p>Nine subsequent visits (until I looked at my records, I didn\u2019t realize I\u2019d been back so many times) have by now taken me to most of the regional hot spots. As time passed, I was looking for specialized species in the more obscure places, as opposed to the cornucopia of lifers I got from my first visits to the top of the Chiricahua Mountains and Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve. But the attraction of a place has to be based on more than just adding species to a list; the rule of diminishing returns takes care of that. I think there are quantifiable reasons, not just personal whim, why southeastern Arizona ranks as my favorite.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s big enough, but it\u2019s not too big. At about 140 by 75 miles, southeastern Arizona is a lot more manageable than the Texas Gulf Coast and the Rio Grande Valley, yet there\u2019s plenty of diversity here to fill a week-long birding vacation. This is true whether you take time for long hikes in beautiful places like Madera Canyon or you zip around in a car from one boldfaced highlight site to the next. In the latter case, quick drives link dozens of excellent spots, and even the extremes of the region aren\u2019t too far apart. To call up one memory: you can see Five-striped Sparrow at California Gulch in the morning, be at a motel in Green Valley in the afternoon, hear about an out-of-season Costa\u2019s Hummingbird at Portal, and make it over there before dark\u2014and get two Calliope Hummingbirds in the deal, too.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s popular, but it\u2019s not too popular. Part of the fun of birding is meeting and exchanging sighting news with other birders on trails, in visitor centers, or in restaurants. This happens in southeastern Arizona, but you rarely get the feeling you\u2019re standing in line for a ride at Disney World. (I make an exception here for the chairs set up in the yard at the wonderful Paton house in Patagonia, where so many people have seen their first Violet-crowned Hummingbird, and where I saw my first Western Screech-Owl, peeking out of a hole in a tree.)<\/p>\n<p>Once I was on a trail at Madera Canyon when an accipiter zoomed past. Out of nowhere\u2014actually from around a bend in the path\u2014I heard a voice ask, \u201cWas that a sharpie or a Cooper\u2019s?\u201d I had no idea, but the voice belonged to a hot-shot visiting birder who knew the area far better than I did, and who pointed me (and in a couple of cases guided me) to my first Arizona Woodpecker and Cassin\u2019s and Rufous-winged sparrows.<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019ve had that too-crowded, High-Island-on-a-spring-weekend or Santa-Ana-in-March experience only once in Arizona. One August a group of us went to the Beatty\u2019s Miller Canyon Guest Ranch in the Huachuca Mountains to check the renowned hummingbird feeders. Unbeknownst to us, the state\u2019s first Short-tailed Hawk had just been reported from Miller Canyon; you can imagine the resulting scene. We saw great hummers (White-eared and Lucifer!) and, boy, did we meet some famous birders.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"TxtPage2\">\n<p>It\u2019s unique. Yes, all of America\u2019s natural divisions and ecosystems have distinctive features, but admit it: there\u2019s really no place like the Sonoran Desert. Maybe it\u2019s not Mars, but there\u2019s an almost otherworldly feeling about walking among giant saguaros, especially in places where vast stands climb from lowlands to wrap around foothills, as they do at Saguaro National Park\u2019s Rincon Mountain District east of Tucson.<\/p>\n<p>You can take a day trip from desert to conifer forest in California, but southeastern Arizona has something else to set it apart: the summer storms locally called monsoons. Two distinct rainy seasons, one in winter and another in July and August, have created seasonal adaptations in some bird species. The beautiful Montezuma Quail forms pairs in late winter but delays nesting to take advantage of more abundant food after the monsoons, which also stimulate singing and nesting of Five-striped, Cassin\u2019s, and Rufous-winged sparrows. A large part of the population of the sought-after Elegant Trogon waits to nest until June and July, as do Sulphur-bellied Flycatchers, among other local breeders. This means that midsummer, a slow birding time in much of the country, is a good time to visit southeastern Arizona\u2019s desert.<\/p>\n\n<p>The monsoons that create this seeming paradox have to be seen to be believed. Frightening in their intensity, they materialize out of night-dark clouds that suddenly appear and pour a fantastic amount of rain, like someone turned on a giant showerhead in the sky. They disappear just as fast, leaving blue sky as if nothing had happened.<\/p>\n<p>I did mention, didn\u2019t I, that it\u2019s beautiful in southeastern Arizona? Admittedly, this assertion comes with an asterisk and a disclaimer: your experience may vary if you don\u2019t share my belief that the desert is a lovely place\u2014not just the saguaro stands but the scrub flats covered in ocotillo, acadia, creosotebush, palo verde, and other cacti such as cholla and prickly pear. If that\u2019s the case, just move on to the grassland of Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge, the riparian canyons of the Huachuca Mountains, or the forests of pine, Douglas-fir, spruce, aspen, and oak in the Chiricahuas, where Mexican Chickadees and Olive Warblers nest among bizarrely shaped volcanic rock formations.<\/p>\n<p>Although southeastern Arizona has long been popular with birders, the region has lagged behind Texas in promoting itself as a wildlife-watching destination. \u201cFor Arizona, mainstream tourism means the Grand Canyon, golf, winter visitors, and spring training,\u201d Sheri Williamson of the Southeastern Arizona Bird Observatory (SABO) says. \u201cThey bring in such huge amounts of money that it\u2019s hard for birding to have its voice heard. And for a state where tourism is so important, Arizona really has an underfunded tourism agency.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>It took several years of false starts, but public and private groups have developed a Southeastern Arizona Birding Trail and accompanying map, available locally and from SABO. (The observatory\u2019s web site, www.sabo.org, offers excellent birding advice for the region, as well as its own clickable map of birding spots.) Williamson says that, with birders\u2019 low profiles as travelers, it\u2019s hard to say whether birding tourism is increasing in the area.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhat I do see is that new sites that have recently come onto the birders\u2019 radar are getting higher and higher visitation,\u201d she says. \u201cIt\u2019s not that you can get bored visiting places like Madera Canyon, the San Pedro River, or Cave Creek Canyon over and over again. It\u2019s that when people hear about a new place, that instantly sparks their imagination.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cFrom a bird standpoint we haven\u2019t leveled out. We\u2019ve got new stuff all the time, and we\u2019ve had more and more interesting birds showing up throughout the year. There\u2019s been a Crescent-chested Warbler, Aztec Thrush, and Eared Quetzal at Madera Canyon this winter. Talk about your embarrassment of riches. We expect that kind of thing in August, but we don\u2019t expect it in January.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Originally from Texas, Williamson admits that the Gulf Coast and the Rio Grande Valley still place high on any birder\u2019s wish list of destinations. But she\u2019s a complete convert to her adopted home.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThis area just has so much, it\u2019s so diverse, that even with my living here and going to the same places all the time, it\u2019s hard for me to contemplate being away during those spectacular times of the year: late April and early May, anytime in August and early September, and even in the middle of winter with the Sandhill Cranes and the birds of prey.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cAs much as I enjoy birding elsewhere, this place really is addictive. It\u2019s hard to think about leaving home when you have so much right out your back door. I hate missing even a day here.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>All things considered\u2014and despite my personal bias\u2014I\u2019d probably still recommend that your Upper Mongalutian friend choose the Texas coast for that hypothetical one-and-only birding trip to North America. But it wouldn\u2019t hurt to check and see if Air Mongalute has any special fares to Tucson, too.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Let\u2019s say you take a birding trip to Upper Mongalute. While there you meet a friendly local who provides lots of good advice, and in fact helps you find the<a class=\"excerpt-read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/www.allaboutbirds.org\/news\/ten-times-and-counting-birding-in-southeastern-arizona\/\" title=\"ReadTen Times and Counting\u2014Birding in Southeastern Arizona\">&#8230; Read more &raquo;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":11404,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_tec_requires_first_save":true,"_birdpress_living_bird_toc":0,"_birdpress_living_bird_toc_title":"","_birdpress_featured_image":false,"_birdpress_hero_toggle":false,"_birdpress_hero_type":"image","_birdpress_hero_image_type":"image","_birdpress_hero_style":"default","_birdpress_hero_ratio":"","_birdpress_hero_h1":"","_birdpress_hero_media_id":0,"_birdpress_hero_media_array_id":[],"_birdpress_hero_media_array":[],"_birdpress_hero_media":0,"_birdpress_hero_video_id":0,"_birdpress_hero_video":0,"_birdpress_hero_youtube":"","_birdpress_hero_content":true,"_birdpress_hero_byline":"","_birdpress_hero_byline_bottom":"","_birdpress_hero_button_link":"","_birdpress_hero_button_text":"","_birdpress_hero_button_color":"","_birdpress_hero_date":false,"original_guid":"","_birdpress_hide_search":false,"_birdpress_page_width":"","_birdpress_global_cta":false,"_birdpress_widget_sidebar":"","_birdpress_next_article":0,"_birdpress_next_article_title":"","_birdpress_prev_article":0,"_birdpress_prev_article_title":"","_birdpress_sub_navigation_id":0,"_birdpress_sub_navigation":"","_birdpress_sub_navigation_title":false,"_birdpress_anchor_navigation_id":0,"_birdpress_anchor_navigation":"","_birdpress_postType":"both","_birdpress_categoryID":0,"_birdpress_tagID":0,"_birdpress_parentPostID":0,"_birdpress_parentPostTitle":"","_birdpress_menuID":0,"_birdpress_menuName":"","_birdpress_listHeader":"","_birdpress_listLayout":"card-display","_birdpress_listColumns":"","_birdpress_maxItems":12,"_birdpress_listPaginate":true,"_birdpress_displaySort":true,"_birdpress_sortOrder":"DESC","_birdpress_sortBy":"date","_birdpress_listID":"","_birdpress_listClass":"","_birdpress_displayImages":true,"_birdpress_displayCaptions":false,"_birdpress_displayExcerpts":false,"_birdpress_attTop":"","_birdpress_attBottom":"","_birdpress_showLogos":false,"_birdpress_post_logo":0,"_EventAllDay":false,"_EventTimezone":"","_EventStartDate":"","_EventEndDate":"","_EventStartDateUTC":"","_EventEndDateUTC":"","_EventShowMap":false,"_EventShowMapLink":false,"_EventURL":"","_EventCost":"","_EventCostDescription":"","_EventCurrencySymbol":"","_EventCurrencyCode":"","_EventCurrencyPosition":"","_EventDateTimeSeparator":"","_EventTimeRangeSeparator":"","_EventOrganizerID":[],"_EventVenueID":[],"_OrganizerEmail":"","_OrganizerPhone":"","_OrganizerWebsite":"","_VenueAddress":"","_VenueCity":"","_VenueCountry":"","_VenueProvince":"","_VenueState":"","_VenueZip":"","_VenuePhone":"","_VenueURL":"","_VenueStateProvince":"","_VenueLat":"","_VenueLng":"","_VenueShowMap":false,"_VenueShowMapLink":false,"_tribe_blocks_recurrence_rules":"","_tribe_blocks_recurrence_description":"","_tribe_blocks_recurrence_exclusions":"","wds_primary_category":0,"wds_primary_topic":0,"wds_primary_content-format":0,"wds_primary_cornell-lab-project":0,"wds_primary_host-project":0,"wds_primary_read-more-tag":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"topic":[998,1045],"content-format":[1055],"cornell-lab-project":[1069],"host-project":[],"read-more-tag":[],"class_list":["post-11403","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","topic-news-and-features","topic-travel-news-and-features","content-format-article","cornell-lab-project-living-bird-magazine"],"metadata":{"associated-posts":[""],"_edit_lock":["1644365965:4"],"_edit_last":["2"],"_thumbnail_id":["11404"],"wdsi_message_id":[""],"wdsi_do_not_show":[""],"custom-byline":["<em>By 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